Masters of vineyards and cellars | BAYNACH

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Masters of vineyards and cellars

Jozef Sedlák, Pravda, 21. mája 2018 o 07:00

BAYNACH - an unknown microworld

 Through wine, people learn about the history of the region they inhabit. The vineyards, where wine is born, shape the character of the landscape, over the centuries they have become a natural part of its panorama. There was a time when we did not perceive this role of wine. However, modern Slovak wine supports the desire for identity with the territory we call homeland. Vineyards and wine reveal the microworld of Slovakia, Europe, the planet.

 

The village of Bojničky, once Baynach, founded by Saxon colonists, belongs to the old wine-growing villages in Slovakia. Two years ago, three wine lovers Dušan Danko, Richard Gažo and Marek Antonín founded a winery and a wine brand called BAYNACH.

The engine of the project, Dušan Danko, quickly gained the favor of his partners with the idea of ​​building an area from the wineries between Hlohovec and Sereď, which could apply for the VOC label - an area producing wines of the original certification. It may take years to achieve this goal, but this year's National Wine Salon shows that there is something to it. Baynach excelled  with one champion of Irsai Oliver and Gewürztraminer.

Irsai Oliver is not a frequent champion of the salon. However, Richard Gažo from Baynach showed what is the strength not only of this wine, but also of the environment from which it comes. The wine surprised with a pleasant greeting from an area that the contemporary does not know much about. The senses were refreshed by the aroma of flowering white-thorn and elder, in the taste of wine there can be smell the berries of fresh grapes.

What kind of territory is mentioned area? The Nitra uplands are formed by hills with an altitude of 110 to 350 meters and on their slopes there lie vineyards with an incredible energy balance of 200 kilojoules per square centimeter! The vineyards in Bojničky are located on terraces that have undergone a general renovation in the last decade under the direction of RaOS. It is a minority shareholder in Baynach. Baynach processes grapes as the first customer from the RaOS company. Together, there are new clones mainly from the whole family of pinots, but there is also Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon blanc, Rheinriesling, Alibernet and aromatic Irsai Oliver and Müller Thurgau.

 A native sub-soil for vine are loess deposits, on the surface it is brown soil, which changes, as it is common in colorful Slovakia, its profile. The soil is mixed with clay, sand and gravel. This diversity actually gives a rich expression of wine, which Gažo does not intend to change, but to strengthen.

Baynach's philosophy is expressed in a concept based on wine being a living mirror of the aroma and taste of space. Let's take the local Rheinriesling, its feature is the apricot aroma and taste. Gažo does not turn it around and remodel it into today's popular citrus "splash", he shows the otherness and originality of the space through the original expression of the wine.

Baynach makes wines without allergens, they do not use oenological preparations derived from eggs or milk. The grapes are processed fresh, they are picked exclusively in crates. It is 1.5 kilometers from the vineyard to the cellar. It is now clear why Irsai Oliver excelled as the champion of the National Salon, why Sauvignon blanc became the winner of Vina Tirnavia and Pinot noir the champion of the Agrovíno Nitra competition.

At the beginning of the summer, the winery organized the second year of the successful „Welcome the summer in vineyard“ festival. It looks like this event, with a thousand enthusiastic wine lovers, started the journey for VOC, which is going to express the spirit of the real Hlohovec-Šintava wine-growing area. It is not official registered area , but local winegrowers and winemakers have begun their big struggle for identity. Let us admit that this emancipation will reveal another original form of Slovak wine.

 

Read the full article here.


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